Day 18: Ellington
Longest day yet at 108 km and about 11 hrs on the road. The route was a bit better than yesterday–the trails not quite as rough, but with the wind, the distance and route finding it made for a long day.
About 20-25 km before our destination we finally got onto a local highway and the wind shifted in our favour, so we made good time and managed the last stretch in record time. That night we would be staying in a B&B on a farm. When talking to the owner earlier that day he’d mentioned there was a pub about a mile down the road, but that they stopped serving at 8 pm. As we approached our destination it was coming up to 7:30 pm, so we decided to go to the pub first and get dinner, then check in at the B&B. A good plan. After dinner we rode the last mile to the B&B, flopped into bed and slept!
Day 19: Seahouses
Seahouses is a small town right on the coast. This was a shorter day than yesterday and we arrived around 3 pm. Then it turned out we couldn’t check in until 4 pm! No problem. There was a cafe and pub right across from our B&B. It’s nice to be on the coast and see the North Sea again.
Day 20: Dunbar
Today we entered Scotland. A nice day of riding with westerly/south westerly winds, so more or less a tail wind; at least not a head wind. Most of the route followed the coast, partly along the castle route. We lunched at the halfway point, Berwick-Upon-Tweed, just before the border with Scotland.
We’d left arranging accommodation in Dunbar a bit late and ended up in a fancier (i.e. more expensive) room than usual, but the place was great. We enjoyed the luxury bathroom, had a great meal and a great chat with the waiter at the hotel’s restaurant.
The plan had been to cycle to Edinburgh the next day (about 50km). However, there was a strong wind warning in effect for Scotland with westerly winds gusting up to 50 miles per hour. Since we’d be heading due west to Edinburgh, we changed plans and decided to catch the train to Edinburgh instead. A quick phone call to National Rail and we were booked, with bikes, on the 11:38 a.m. train the next day. This change of plans also meant we could sleep in, have a leisurely breakfast, and explore Dunbar, the birth place of John Muir, the naturalist and founder of the Sierra Club, before heading to Edinburgh.