Parc de la Vanoise, September 2016

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We first walked in the Vanoise in 2011 when we did the GR5. We were impressed with the area and bought a detailed map with the intention of returning. In late August 2016 we found ourselves heading to Europe for a graduation and a family wedding in the Netherlands, and we decided to spend some time walking in France in September.

We left Amsterdam by train the morning of September 5. After lunch in Paris, where we changed trains and stations, we arrived in Modane late afternoon. Modane isn’t a tourist destination, it is railway and forest industry town not far from the Italian border, but it is on the southern edge of Parc de la Vanoise and serviced by the high-speed Paris-Milan train, making it easy to access and a good starting point.

Map of the walkWe did a spectacular 12-day walk: beautiful scenery and great weather. We couldn’t have asked for anything better. The hike stands out in our minds as one of the highlights of the hiking and touring we’ve done, and that’s saying something!

Despite good weather, we modified our plans for the last three days—the forecast changed to 20-25cm of snow at high elevations. We had planned to be well above 2500m those three days, but prudence prevailed; we turned around and went back to the refuge we stayed at on Day 3. From there we walked down into the valley to Termiginon, then back to Modane. We felt sad to leave the high mountains early, but as you can see in the photos, it was the right thing to do. Besides, we now have a good excuse to return.

A map of the route is at the right (or above if you are using a small screen). Click it to open a Google map. We walked the figure-eight shaped blue route starting at the bottom in Modane. The line in red is the route we hoped to take back to Modane, but instead we walked the blue route on the lower right through the valley.

Below is a large gallery of photos. Click the first one (or tap it twice) to open as a slideshow.  See the end of this post for some references.

 

Leaving Paris, Gare de Lyon
Modane, our starting point. Forestry and the railroad.
Day 1, a short climb to Ref. de l’Orgère
Day 1, steady climb.
Refuge de l’Orgère
Day 2. Morning fog.
Day 2.
Morning break. The mountains are out!
Refuge Plan Sec
Setting off on day 3
Day 3
Day 3 – Can you find the two hikers crossing the scree slope?
The scree slope isn’t as hard as it looked.
Sheep
Refuge de l’Arpont
Pays to be polite in France!
View on day 4.
Stream crossing
Glaciers, waterfalls and rocks.
Refuge Plan du Lac
Cow outside the refuge.
Dinner at Ref Plan du Lac.
Morning, day 5
Refuge la Femma.
Cow at Ref. la Femma.
Day 6. Tarn at Col de la Rocheur, 2911m.
Steep descent from the col.
Day 6 – open spaces.
Day 6 – watched by cows.
Day 6.
Day 6 – twin waterfalls on the way to Val d’Isere.
Val d’Isere.
Day 7 – away from the ski slopes.
Day 8 – Cat joined us for breakfast.
Day 8, leaving Refuge Col du Palet.
Day 8 – Col de la Leisse
Refuge la Leisse
Pack animals that bring supplies to the refuge.
Day 9.
Day 9 – lovely walk through the Vallon de la Leisse
16th century bridge over la Liesse. An old salt trading route.
Old fortifications on the way to Col de la Vanoise.
Refuge Col de la Vanoise.
From a window in the refuge.
Writing my journal.
French army troops staying at the refuge for mountaineering training.
Day 10. Walking out to Ref Plan du Lac. The reverse of the previous day.
Day 10.
Refuge Plan du Lac again.
Dorm room at Plan du Lac
Day 11. Snow. Were hiking up there yesterday.
Old chapel on the descent into the valley.
Interior of the chapel.
Rain in the valley.
Town in the valley.
City Hall, Modane.
Departing Modane on the train to Turin, Italy.

References

Our walk was largely based on the Cicerone guide Tour of the Vanoise.

Park website in French (opens on the page about hiking)

More hiking info: Walks in Parc de la Vanoise

5 thoughts on “Parc de la Vanoise, September 2016”

  1. Mahalo for sharing this fabulous trip with us. Photos are magnificent. I’m a cow lover, esp. on hikes and smiled at the black and white with red earring! Bill is a train lover and was taken with those lovely photographs. When you say this is a standout highlight of all your hikes that is saying so much, considering the massive amount of hikes you have done.
    Aloha, Bill & Gretchen

  3. Hey, really nice to see these photos, you two. The scenery is spectacular and expansive. It appears there a very few people hiking these trails. Is that true? They certainly know how to construct buildings that last, don’t they.

    • True – few other hikers. It was late in the season and everything was winding down. A good time of year to walk, but you must be careful of the weather and check that refuges are still open. We didn’t expect some large groups of primary school students. A great idea in France—schools organize multi-day trips for classes as “team building” to start off the school year.

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