No wifi for several days, so this post from Monday is posted late.
Monday (May 2) was wet and cool day, several brief periods of sun, but mostly light and sometimes heavy rain. The route went up into the Central Apennines, climbing about 1000m. The vineyards and olive groves are below—here it is forest, logged, but usually selective cutting, or small clear cuts. I saw one small deer and one squirrel; there is wildlife left in Italy.
I am staying in a little cabin about 10 minutes walk outside the town (15 minutes back, up hill). It is run by a family who have a restaurnt in town. They have created a number of places for pilgrims, badly needed after the hotel closed three years ago. I scored this specail little cabin at the home of one of the family members. All modern cons. Good meal at the restaurant, their own tortellini with local mushrooms.
I’m now an official pilgrim. On most pilgrim routes you can carry a “credential,” like a passport, which shows you are a pilgrim. On some routes (like the Camino de Santiago) you can get it at the start, but not on the route I am doing. For my route you need to send for it several months in advance. I decided late to walk this route, so no time to send for one, and it isn’t a important for me. You get your credential stamped in each place you stay to show you have walked the full route. Some accommodation on a pilgrimage route will only let you in if you have a credential as they act as a charity for pilgrims, charge little, sometimes only a donation, and are run by volunteers.
Today I was asked if I would like my credential stamped. I said I didn’t have one. “But you are walking to Rome. Would you like one?” This place is in support of pilgrims and they have a stock of credentials. Now I have one. With a stamp for Consuma and all the official stuff filled in. When I get to Rome I can show the credential to the Swiss guards at the Vatican City, get inside, present my credential and receive a certificate. Not the point of my walk, but I may.
Here are a few photos of wet landscape and an old stone-paved road: